Day 04 – Jiufen to Su’Ao – Abandoned factories


Start: 10:30 / 109 km / 602 hm

Luckily the heavy rain in Jiufen from the night settled down to a fizzy rain in the morning. First disappointed, this foggy moist gave my descend to the coast a more than mystical atmosphere.

Clouds were just hanging at the top of the surrounding mountains. Passing cemeteries and temples made this almost a spiritual ride.

The descend is highly recommended, as you will come across several abandoned buildings and factories. Forgotten industry, just beside beautiful rivers flowing down from the top.

Although perfect cycleways and incredible seaside, the subsequent long segment along the sea was a little bit trist due to the starting rain and clouded sky. Anyway, listening to some 60s Enka music gave it a very nice melancholic feeling.

The following route I had prepared aside the official cycle route proved to be gold – rode approximately 15 km through rice paddies, no sign of cars. Narrow “roads” with rice fields left and right and loads of cranes walking funny in the fields.

Approching my hotel, sundown was setting in, rain started to get heavier again and I had to cycle on big roads. But after a ride like before this was bearable.


Checked in at the hotel in Su’Ao and went looking for some restaurant but couldn’t find something appropriate, so had a quick beer at the convenience store. While finishing it, a small truck parked just before me and build up a portable Oden (Ào dēng as the taiwanese call it) bar. Bingo!

Subsequently had another beer while sorting photos, as I was approached by two young taiwenese. They invited me to more oden and drink with them at the portable restaurant.

So finished the day with 方菇 and her friend, had loads of interesting talks, laughed and learned a lot about taiwanese culture. 菇 is also a design student who is doing incredible works. Thank you both so much for the evening!

Later we were also joined by the restaurant keeper and a stray dog – but not the ones we know. Quite dapper and well behaved. Offered him a cigarette, but he refused with his paw.

Also experienced my first real stronger earthquake, doors were shaking. All laughed as this is quite common to this area.

Finished the evening in front of the hotel “talking” to two taiwanese working there. They couldn’t speak english, but I was more than impressed how well Google Translate works in Mandarin. Even complicated long sentences were translated correct…

Again, late to bed.


    1. Danke! Morgen gehts in die Taroko Schluch Höhenmeter machen. Könnte auch gut werden. Aber ein groß liegt auch an den Leuten hier, sehr sehr gastfreundlich…

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